An Iconic Show
On Tuesday evening, the historic Pont Neuf bridge in Paris witnessed an unprecedented show as Pharrell Williams debuted his first-ever menswear collection for the respected luxury company, Louis Vuitton.
With his wide impact as a renowned musician, producer, and entrepreneur, as well as his 14 million Instagram followers, it was no surprise that a star-studded audience was in attendance. Power couple Jay-Z and Beyoncé attended, as did Rihanna and her lover A$AP Rocky, Zendaya, Lewis Hamilton, Kelly Rowland, Tyler, the Creator, and Kim Kardashian. After the event, the excitement continued with a performance by Jay-Z, who brought Williams on stage to sing their 2003 smash song “Frontin’.”
Williams’ hiring as the creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear in February surprised the fashion industry, given that British designers Grace Wales Bonner and Martine Rose had been preferred for the position. However, the latest concert demonstrated why Williams was the ideal choice. It expanded beyond the confines of a regular fashion show, becoming a celebrity showcase, an electrifying performance, and a memorable party, all while showcasing exceptional garment creations.
“It’s the perfect fusion of entertainment and fashion, mass appeal and luxury,” says Osman Ahmed, fashion features director at i-D magazine and a show attendee. “I believe we’ll look back on this as a significant turning point.”
Collection
The runway show included a mix of flamboyant pieces saturated with logos, such as a plush full-length coat decorated with LV emblems (the collection included both real and artificial fur) and a football-style jersey with the Louis Vuitton insignia. Smart tailoring and a plethora of bags were also prominent. Notably, an amazing fashion moment happened when a Jeep convertible laden with baggage glided smoothly down the catwalk. The phrase “LV is for Lovers” was inspired by Williams’ home state of Virginia, which has the tagline “Virginia is for Lovers.” The creative director made a spectacular entrance wearing a suit with a pixelated camouflage design that matched the outfits of his four children sat in the front row.
Williams’ appointment, which surpassed that of a normally educated designer, has generated debate since its announcement. Nonetheless, Chris Black, co-host of the fashion and pop culture podcast “How Long Gone,” recognizes Williams’ cultural capital. “In today’s age, the creative director position is more about capturing a vibe and envisioning the brand’s direction,” he says. “I hate to admit it, but I believe that the product itself is almost secondary, if not the third or fourth most important aspect.”
Importantly, Williams has extensive expertise working with fashion businesses. He has collaborated with Adidas since 2014, started his own brand, Billionaire Boys Club, in 2005, and will launch the skincare line Humanrace in 2020. He has also previously worked with Louis Vuitton, most notably in 2008, when he teamed with the then-creative director, Marc Jacobs, to create the very popular Millionaires sunglasses collection.
This position comes after the death of the previous creative director in 2021. A close friend of Williams, Virgil Abloh, reinvented luxury by borrowing inspiration from pop culture, hip-hop, and anti-racism action. Williams has stated his intention to continue his predecessor’s efforts by infusing the house with a Black perspective and challenging its historic links with a largely white elite.
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The unveiling of the first ad campaign, featuring a pregnant Rihanna, exemplified this vision. Speaking to the New York Times, Williams expressed his appreciation, stating, “What I love about this is, it’s the biggest fashion house in the world, and that is a Black woman with child.” The presence of Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, and numerous other Black American stars at Williams’s debut show showcased his influence and the profound impact of Black culture on a global scale. Jon Caramanica, writing for the New York Times, speculated that Williams’s role at Louis Vuitton could signify “a full-throated acknowledgment of the power of Black cultural capital on a global stage.”
“This was not just a catwalk show,” agrees Ahmed. “It was the entire center of Paris closing for a fashion show. It was Beyoncé in the middle of a world tour showing up, Rihanna and A$AP Rocky arriving halfway through. It’s surreal because you realize how much power is involved in that. Cultural power, financial power, fashion power, artistic power. I think that we’re going to see aftershocks in the industry for years to come.”
Pharrell Williams’s debut as the creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear has undoubtedly left an indelible mark on the fashion world. Breaking free from convention, Williams’s unique blend of entertainment and fashion has captivated audiences, garnering immense attention and setting the stage for a new era of luxury. With his profound cultural influence, entrepreneurial spirit, and passion for pushing boundaries, Williams is poised to redefine the landscape of menswear, elevating it to new heights of creativity and inclusivity.
As we eagerly anticipate future collections from Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton, the fashion industry stands at the cusp of transformation. With his innovative vision and commitment to amplifying Black voices, Williams is poised to challenge existing norms and pave the way for a more diverse and inclusive future in fashion. Stay tuned as the aftershocks of this monumental moment reverberate throughout the industry, shaping the course of menswear for years to come. The journey has just begun, and we are thrilled to witness the extraordinary evolution of Pharrell Williams’s creative directorship at Louis Vuitton.